mercredi 31 mai 2017

JD L120 Wont Run Unless Bypass Solenoid

Ive read up on this and I know its either ignition switch, pto switch, rio switch, solenoid or brake switch. I ordered a new solenoid and ignition switch. Brake switch is still intact at the mount.

New battery. Runs great if I jump the solenoid. They ignition switch does weird things depending on position its in while its running. If I have it in one position and press the reverse pedal, the mower deck starts moving then it stalls. Also, pto switch only turns on the deck when in a different key position.

Headlights dont work at all.

Fuse near solenoid is good. No power to starter side of solenoid. No power to purple wire on solenoid. No power coming out other end of fuse.

Also found a stray black wire. Not sure where it goes. Says P.E.D on the connector.
Attached Images


JD L120 Wont Run Unless Bypass Solenoid

Replace Drive Belt on Brute 675 front wheel drive mower

I cannot seem to work out how to remove the cover on the top front of the mower to gain access to the forward portion of the belt.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks


Replace Drive Belt on Brute 675 front wheel drive mower

Need help !

What is the major differences between the Vanguard and the XR Professional series of engines looking at buying a 950 6.5hp

Thank you


Need help !

missing spring

Hello all I hope someone can identify this spring that is missing on my 2007 troy bilt zero turn mustang RZT 50 model 17AF2ACP766. the spring is located on the side of the hydro transmission near what looks like a gear.IMG_3165[1].jpgIMG_3169[1].jpg

one picture has the spring and the other side is missing the spring

thanks
Attached Images


missing spring

Proper Idle Mixture Screw & engine RPM settings? - Briggs 23 Hp Vanguard

Horizontal shaft, 23.0 Hp Vanguard engine, model 386447-3079-G1, equipped with (according to the Service Manual) a Nikki carburetor.

1. What is the proper initial setting of the Idle Mixture Screw? My service manual says the initial settings on the Idle Mixture Screws should be 3/4 of a turn COUNTERclockwise (CCW) from a "lightly seated" position (fully closed). HOWEVER, if you read the (somewhat generic) information on the Vanguard website regarding carburetor adjustments, it says the initial position of the Idle Mixture Screw should be 1-1/2 turns CCW - That's a 2X difference. I'm assuming the Service Manual is correct and the website doesn't address every Vanguard engine & carburetor available, but if anyone has any special guidance here, I would appreciate it. BTW - the engine starts & runs on either Idle Mixture Screw setting, but it does smell a little rich at the 1.5 turns CCW setting.

2. Is the Governed Idle Spring supposed to be disconnected when I do the final Idle Mixture Screw adjustments? The Service Manual says for the FINAL Idle Mixture adjustment, it should be performed with the engine running at 1200 RPM. I am unable to get my engine to idle smoothly at that slow of speed. It surges between 1200 -1500 RPM, but never runs smoothly and repeatedly dies. If I hold the Throttle Lever against the Idle Speed Screw as the Manual states, it most definitely will die. The next section in the Manual says after the Idle Mixture is finalized, the governed Idle Tang should be adjusted so the engine operates at 1750 RPM (I have the red Governed Idle Spring), so is the Governed Idle Spring supposed to be disconnected when I set the engine RPM to 1200 and do the final Idle Mixture Screw adjustments?


Proper Idle Mixture Screw & engine RPM settings? - Briggs 23 Hp Vanguard

JD 930m

Got a demo 930m with Tweels and suspension seat, really nice rig. Seems very well built and holds hills very well and tweels eliminate bounce when I didnt see some holes. I have 14 acres that are fairly hilly but mostly reasonable slope. Still want to demo Ferris.


JD 930m

Snapper Bag-N-Wagon

Hi I'm new to the site and I'm not sure if this is the right place to post an item for sale or not but here I go. I have a Bag-N-Wagon for sale, it's all there and in good shape. Not exactly sure what ones worth but I know they are pretty hard to find. I also have the hitch.
Thanks
Ronnie


Snapper Bag-N-Wagon

B&S 21 HP Running Rough

Have a Craftsman mower with a B&S 21hp single cylinder with numbers 331877-2371-G5-110408ZD. Lately it has started surging with the governor seeming to control it. It will not idle except with the choke half closed and even at full throttle needs some choke. All its passages seem clear, but I haven't removed the Welch plug yet. Is there something behind there I need to worry about? When running at full speed it is laboring and I can hear some misfires, all this while I'm holding the governor to prevent the surging. I rebuilt the Nikki carb last summer and have disassembled it several times this spring looking for the problem, but I'm admitting defeat and asking for help. Changed the rubber gasket from carb elbow to block, but no evidence of any leak or damage. Have also flushed out the fuel tank, running it on non-ethanol gas, and changed the fuel filter. I have adjusted the valve lash. I'm going in the morning to get a spark plug since the old one is nearing a year old. A compression test looked a little strange, seemed to not climb every compression stroke, then climbing another 15 to 20# on the next stroke. It averaged around 160 to 170. I tried a leak-down test with my cheap Harbor Freight tester that is only designed for 15# pressure, but I'm not sure I trust my results so I'm skipping that. I'm frustrated and out of ideas and hunting some more ideas. Oh, haven't adjusted the governor yet as I didn't want to create another problem if I can't get it to run with no choke.

Thanks,
Dave


B&S 21 HP Running Rough

Bag-N-Wagon?

Hi I'm new to the site and I'm not sure if this is the right place to post an item for sale or not but here I go. I have a Bag-N-Wagon for sale, it's all there and in good shape. Not exactly sure what ones worth but I know they are pretty hard to find. If this post needs to be moved I will gladly move it.
Thanks
Ronnie


Bag-N-Wagon?

brakes

I have a GX 75 and just replaced the drive belt.. Tough job !!!!! After running it to see if it was ok. I have no brakes... Any ideas or suggestions??????????????????


brakes

05 Huskee supreme slt 4200

I don't know why when I lift the deck up the blades ingage? pto is off.


05 Huskee supreme slt 4200

Husqvarna trimmers (are they all made by Husqvarna)? And Poulan products.

I'm in the market for a better trimmer. I'm considering buying this Husqvarna from Lowes:

http://ift.tt/2sfvlSC

I don't want something real heavy. It sounds like what I am after.

My 7 year old Husqvarna riding mower has been excellent except for deck issues but I'm sure if my yard was not rough as a cobb and I wasn't trying to squeeze my 46" mower through a 48" hole (yard barn), it wouldn't have needed any work.

My question is are all Husqvarna trimmers made by Husqvarna and not some other company?

I've bought my last Poulan product. Seems like 15 years ago they were not that bad. I got 12 years out of Poulan Featherlite weed wacker and a Featherlite leaf blower I bought from Wal-Mart for $70 each at the same time in 2001. The shaft broke where the safety shield attaches to shaft and the recoil messed up on the leaf blower.

I've got several Poulan weed whackers and leaf blower FeatherLites in my storage building people have given me I keep on hand for spare parts. All have various issues. But the actual engines on all of them are excellent! Imagine that.

Something is wrong with the bump head on my current Troy Bilt (which someone told me is made by Poulan). It just spins around and I had to take a pair of small vice grips to remove the bump head. Now for some reason I can't seem to get the bump head off! I'm not sure what's up with it but it's only 2-3 years old.

Would any of you guys recommend on this particular weed whacker?


Husqvarna trimmers (are they all made by Husqvarna)? And Poulan products.

Husqvarna trimmers (are they all made by Husqvarna)? And Poulan products.

I'm in the market for a better trimmer. I'm considering buying this Husqvarna from Lowes:

http://ift.tt/2sfvlSC

I don't want something real heavy. It sounds like what I am after.

My 7 year old Husqvarna riding mower has been excellent except for deck issues but I'm sure if my yard was not rough as a cobb and I wasn't trying to squeeze my 46" mower through a 48" hole (yard barn), it wouldn't have needed any work.

My question is are all Husqvarna trimmers made by Husqvarna and not some other company?

I've bought my last Poulan product. Seems like 15 years ago they were not that bad. I got 12 years out of Poulan Featherlite weed wacker and a Featherlite leaf blower I bought from Wal-Mart for $70 each at the same time in 2001. The shaft broke where the safety shield attaches to shaft and the recoil messed up on the leaf blower.

I've got several Poulan weed whackers and leaf blower FeatherLites in my storage building people have given me I keep on hand for spare parts. All have various issues. But the actual engines on all of them are excellent! Imagine that.

Something is wrong with the bump head on my current Troy Bilt (which someone told me is made by Poulan). It just spins around and I had to take a pair of small vice grips to remove the bump head. Now for some reason I can't seem to get the bump head off! I'm not sure what's up with it but it's only 2-3 years old.

Would any of you guys recommend on this particular weed whacker?


Husqvarna trimmers (are they all made by Husqvarna)? And Poulan products.

if it's not one thing...

i've been having problems with my drive belt slipping off (husqvarna lgt2554). ultimately, i bought a new one. while replacing it i had to disconnect a wire that i believe goes to the electric clutch. after replacing the belt the mower will not start, it just makes a loud clicking noise. i tried starting it with said wire disconnected and the clicking noise is present, but much quieter. i've never had any problems getting the mower to start. on a side note, during my belt slippage issues, the bypass rod that allows the mower to be put in neutral "disappeared". when i looked at the manual toggle that the rod connects to, it had been broken off. not sure how that could happen, and i'm wondering if it might be connected. thoughts?


if it's not one thing...

Wiring on a 2165 from '96-'98

Hello, new user... Sorry, copying thread I started

I have a 2165 from '96-'98 that I'm trying to repair the wiring on. Pictures of all the connections would be helpful!!!! I have the wiring diagram but my interpretation is in question...lol
2165.jpg
Problems in particular, the small red wire from starter - does that go to the red wire junction that is behind the firewall, near solenoid (3-4 red wires are joined together there)? Also, the red wire that goes to the PTO clutch is burned and there is a 2nd red wire that comes out of the connector that isn't represented in the diagram. Is that supposed to be there and if so, where does it go? Finally, the black wire that comes out of the key switch, that is missing - - do I need to add a 20 A fuse and attach that to the battery side of the starter solenoid?

Sorry, this wiring is a mess
Attached Images


Wiring on a 2165 from '96-'98

BIG DOG MOWER PROBLEM

PURCHASED A BIG DOG BLACKJACK MODEL FOR USE AT OUR CHURCH. HAVE HAD BELT PROBLEMS FROM DAY ONE. BELT HAS COME OFF 5-6 TIMES AND BROKEN ONCE. MACHINE HAS LESS THAN 20 HOURS USE. ANYONE ELSE HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THIS MACHINE?


BIG DOG MOWER PROBLEM

Recommended ZTR

Hello,
I recently moved to a 1.5 acre lot, and I'm looking to upgrade to a ZTR. I'm currently using a 42" Husqvarna YTH2242 lawn tractor. I would like to speed up the job, and better deal with some of the tight turns. I plan to use it in mulching mode. 46" is the max that will fit in my truck bed. There is enough slope in a few areas that causes me to lean to the side to be comfortable in my current tractor. I don't want to buy junk, but I want it to do a good job and last a while. I would like to keep it under $3000 if possible. These are the options I have found in my own research.

Husqvarna Z246 (46") 46" 21.5HP Kawasaki $2,799.99 https://www.powerequipmentdirect.com...er/p50308.html
Husqvarna Z246 (46") 46" 20HP Husqvarna $2,499.99 https://www.powerequipmentdirect.com...er/p73137.html
Cub Cadet RZT L46 46" 23HP Kohler $2,899.99 https://www.powerequipmentdirect.com...er/p15454.html
Cub Cadet RZT LX46 46" 18HP Kawasaki $2,999.99 https://www.powerequipmentdirect.com...er/p73635.html

Any thoughts or advice? Thank you!


Recommended ZTR

I'm lost....who's the Honda model # expert?

I have a mower that's got some transmission issues, and I'm starting to look at parts prices online. I'm not getting very far though, since my model number isn't listed anywhere, even on the Honda website. The numbers are...

Model: HRX2172HXA
Serial No: MAGA-2011018

I can get close, but not exact with the model number, and even then my serial number throws it all off. My options on the Honda page that are close are....

HRX217 HXA MAGA-1000001-1299999
HRX217K1HXA MAGA-1400001-1499999

The other 16 options start to get farther away from the numbers I've got on my tag. Do I have some oddball mower that parts aren't available for any more?

Any thoughts appreciated.


I'm lost....who's the Honda model # expert?

Cub cadet LTX1046VT not charging

I have a Briggs 23 hp on a Cub Cadet that isn't charging. I tested the battery and it was at 11.5 volts. I turned the engine on and tested it, still 11.5 volts at the battery. Next I disconnected the yellow wire at the voltage regulator(only one yellow wire) and tested the stator and it was putting out about 40 volts AC so I hooked it back up.

I tested the red wire that connects to the voltage regulator with the ignition on and got nothing from the battery, was expecting at least battery voltage.
I tested for continuity with the red wire to the first connector disconnected and have continuity.
I also get 12+ volts on the red wire on the connector side when it is disconnected at the connector, why now and not when it is connected?
I then disconnected the red wire at the regulator and tested the voltage coming out of the regulator and it was about 8 volts.
I replaced the regulator with an aftermarket one thinking it wasn't putting enough out. Retested everything and got almost the identical results with the new regulator. Still only putting out about 8 volts. Coincidence? What am I testing wrong? Thanks for any information. Model 446777
type 0763 B1
code 100504 G
Attached Images


Cub cadet LTX1046VT not charging

Honda Harmony 2013 Riding mower transmission issue?

I was backing up my 1998 Honda Harmony riding mover (2013HSA) and the left rear wheel hit a tree (not going fast). Not 100% sure backing into the tree was the cause however now the mover will not start in neutral (it is an automatic/hydrostatic). Now when I try to start it in neutral the wheels start to turn. I have to move the transmission shift lever out of neutral, up a notch or two, and push the neutral button in by hand, the button that is normally pushed in when the transmission is in neutral, to allow the mower to start.

Looking at the components, nothing looks broken. The mower will start and ride (with adjustments mentioned above). I just want to fix this problem as basically running my Honda without a neutral can be dangerous.

Any ideas what need to be done?

Thanks for any help.


Honda Harmony 2013 Riding mower transmission issue?

FPT vs, HP Briggs gotta mess with things...

I pulled my head out of the sand recently and found that B&S has changed the power ratings of their engines.

Now, everything is in FPT which I translate as Foot Pounds Torque, rather than good old HP.
I do understand the difference between the two, but am not sure how they relate in lawn and garden applications.

I have seen websites that give comparisons for some brands, but not Briggs.
Does anyone have a handle on the comparative output of these 2 methods?


FPT vs, HP Briggs gotta mess with things...

PTO not re-engaging

I have a new CC Z Force L 54. When I pull the steering bars back the PTO shuts off the blades as it should, but when I go forward after that the blades do not start turning/cutting again. (My 2007 Z Force 50 starts back when I move forward.) The manual says it should start back when one or both of the lap bars are moved forward. I have to manually push down the electric PTO button & pull it back up every time to restart the blades.


PTO not re-engaging

attachnents for FS78

Does anybody know where I can get a brush attachment ? Also I only have a weed whip attachment now , is there any adaptors I need to switch over ?


attachnents for FS78

New engine for Super Recyclers in 2017?

I was looking at the Super Recycler at my local Toro dealer and noticed the engine is different, at least cosmetically. Last year the engine had red plastic trim and now it is shaped differently and matte black. Does anyone know if the changes are more than cosmetic? Looking at a parts diagram, the 2016 part number for the engine is "ENGINE-1P65FC"; in 2017 it is "ENGINE-1P65F". The dealer didn't know.


New engine for Super Recyclers in 2017?

mardi 30 mai 2017

STIHL HT101 4MIX TROUBLE

I'm working on a ht101 sthil 4mix pole saw it want RPM up when you pull trigger it cranks and idles but that all but after it runs about minute it will start to rpm up some if you hold trigger wide open, I have change plug adjusted valves clean carb and than tried new carb try it with muffler off fuel fliter is clean,got and ideas?


STIHL HT101 4MIX TROUBLE

Can anyone identify this mower?

I had this mower in the barn and decided to clean it up and get it running and it runs fine after i took it all apart and everything. I just don't know the model of the mower but i do know it is a ranchking as you can see. I'm looking for the proper way to start it without using a drill on the flywheel and some ether, and what motor it has and what oil it takes as well.
IMG_9075.jpgIMG_9076.jpgIMG_9077.jpgIMG_9078.jpg
Attached Images


Can anyone identify this mower?

Kohler Courage 20HP Single Cylinder (SV470-610) Oil Leaking

I have a Kohler Courage single cylinder (SV470-610) mounted on a Huskee model 13AX615H730 that has developed an oil leak at what appears to be the head gasket. It has 725+ hours on it (it's a workhorse) and is still running strong but the leaking oil is getting all over the frame as well as tires and even onto the belt below. The one spot I can see it leaking is off the cooling fins.

I removed the hood and engine cover/shroud a couple of weeks ago to clean the engine and see if I could determine where the leak was coming from. I found three loose bolts on the top of the engine (see below) and tightened them hoping that was the main problem. The engine still leaked after tightening those bolts. I removed the shroud again a few days ago after I noticed oil spraying forward from beneath the shroud and found the same bolts had come loose again. Re-tightened the bolts but oil still leaking.

170513_02b(1000x).jpg

Question #1: Aside from keeping these three bolts tight (need some Locktight?), could this be a head gasket going?

Question #2: If this is a bad head gasket, how difficult is that to replace? I first thought I'd have to remove rockers, springs and basically disassemble the head to get it off, but after looking at an online service manual (see below) I'm thinking it can be accomplished by removing the valve cover, rocker arms and push rods and then unbolt the head. Is it that simple?

Cylinder Head Components.JPG

If anyone has a step-by-step procedure for this (and re-assembling) that would be great.

Thanks for reading and any advice and/or experience you can offer.
Attached Images


Kohler Courage 20HP Single Cylinder (SV470-610) Oil Leaking

Kohler vs Kawasaki

Newbie here. Have decided on a new Hustler, but dont know if I should buy the Kohler 7000 Pro or the Kawasaki 691V. Have a Kohler Command that is 12 years old and has ran flawlessly, but hearing good things about the Kawasaki. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Kohler vs Kawasaki

Kawasaki vs Kohler

Newbie here. decided on a new Hustler, but should I buy the Kohler 7000 Pro or the Kawasaki 691v? Have an old Kohler Command that has ran flawlessly for 12 years, but hearing alot about the Kawasaki. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Kawasaki vs Kohler

Ferris 36" mower - propulsion forward and back stopped working

My husband was mowing the pawn with our walk behind 36" Ferris self propelled mower. The motor continued to run and the blades will still engage. But the mower will not move forward or back anymore.

After looking over your site, we removed the cover to check the belts. The belts do not appear to be clogged, cracked, or broken. However, when you push the hand things forward or back, the belts do not move.

We have also confirmed that the mower is engaged and not in neutral.

It is about 12 years old. The motor still runs. When my husband kicked it all the way up so I could look at the underneath while motor was running (blades off and standing back!) there was a slight lurch forward, as if the propulsion might work if we were able to keep it tilted in just the right position.
Any help you could provide would be much appreciated.


Thank you so much for this great site and service!


Ferris 36" mower - propulsion forward and back stopped working

Hi Vac motor swap???

I'm trying to get a little information. Last year I bought a used snapper hi vac mower. The engine says its a 5.5 b&s signature series. I don't know anything about cutting grass (spent most of my life in Florida enjoying a small sandy yard with some sporadic weeds) but I believe my engine is getting tired. It doesn't look new, and when I cut my yard I have yo go slow or else it gets so bogged down that it'll die. We're not talking knee high weeds here, just a week or two of growth and it'll struggle through it. This past weekend my self propelled feature went out. I took it apart and discovered a bad bearing and my rubber drive wheel (?) was worn down against the drive disk (?) so no big deal, just order a couple parts. But while I was down there it got me thinking, maybe she could use a motor swap. So I started doing a little research. I do not know what the diameter and length of the output shaft is. I would prefer for a direct match up so I can unbolt my drive belt pulley and blade adapter from the old engine and transfer them to the new. Will this engine work? Thoughts? Opinions? I can't seem to upload the picture if the mower via my phone. Will try again tonight after work.

http://ift.tt/2rlIknO


Hi Vac motor swap???

Kohler Courage 20HP Single Cylinder (SV470-610) Oil Leaking

I have a Kohler Courage single cylinder (SV470-610) mounted on a Huskee model 13AX615H730 that has developed an oil leak at what appears to be the head gasket. It has 725+ hours on it (it's a workhorse) and is still running strong but the leaking oil is getting all over the frame as well as tires and even onto the belt below. The one spot I can see it leaking is off the cooling fins.

I removed the hood and engine cover/shroud a couple of weeks ago to clean the engine and see if I could determine where the leak was coming from. I found three loose bolts on the top of the engine (see below) and tightened them hoping that was the main problem. The engine still leaked after tightening those bolts. I removed the shroud again a few days ago after I noticed oil spraying forward from beneath the shroud and found the same bolts had come loose again. Re-tightened the bolts but oil still leaking.

170513_02b(1000x).jpg

Question #1: Aside from keeping these three bolts tight (need some Locktight?), could this be a head gasket going?

Question #2: If this is a bad head gasket, how difficult is that to replace? I first thought I'd have to remove rockers, springs and basically disassemble the head to get it off, but after looking at an online service manual (see below) I'm thinking it can be accomplished by removing the valve cover, rocker arms and push rods and then unbolt the head. Is it that simple?

Cylinder Head Components.JPG

If anyone has a step-by-step procedure for this (and re-assembling) that would be great.

Thanks for reading and any advice and/or experience you can offer.
Attached Images


Kohler Courage 20HP Single Cylinder (SV470-610) Oil Leaking

replacement parts for Model # 917.288110, with a Dana model # D6800-1 transaxle

Would anyone know the replacement parts for a craftsman riding mower Model # 917.288110, with a Dana model # D6800-1 transaxle.
Looking for brake puck part # 407133 & brake disc part # 407134, both discontinued by manufacture.


replacement parts for Model # 917.288110, with a Dana model # D6800-1 transaxle

275 hour cheetah price check

I'm in the market for a new mower. I have 6 acres of lightly wooded grounds with flower beds, shrubs, and trees to mow around. There are some hilly areas also.

A local John Deere dealer has a 2014 cheetah with 275 hours on it for $7900. It has the Kohler ecv940 fuel inj engine and 61" deck. It looks almost factory new from what I can tell. Drove it around and really liked the ride. I have some back injuries so I need the smoothest ride I can get.

Priced a new one at the local scag dealer and he wants $10999.00 for the same thing with the smaller engine.

Story the dealer gave me was he traded it in because he didn't like the cut in wet grass. So he upgraded to a JD and 7 iron deck. I drove one of them around too, but the ride was too rough for me.

I'm currently using a 1995 Dixon 560 commercial with a 60" deck and 20hp Kohler Magnum. I saved her from the scrap dealer and have been using it for a few years now. It mows great, but the ride literally sends me to the emergency room...no exaggeration.

Would like some insight on what kind of issues I should look out for on the cheetah and if his price is acceptable. I did read the older Kohler 940 engines were prone to overheating.

Will try and attach some pics of my Dixon.
Thank you for any help you can give me.

IMG_1336.jpg

IMG_1338.jpg
Attached Images


275 hour cheetah price check

Replacing the seat on the RZT-S

I want to replace the lower back seat with a high back with arm rests, is this possible? The new Z-Force has a nice black and yellow one, but not sure if I could do a swap for it?

Any ideas?


Replacing the seat on the RZT-S

Brake Puck & disc brake replacement 407133 & 407134

Would anyone know the replacement parts numbers for a craftsman riding mower Model # 917.288110, with a Dana model # D6800-1 transaxle.
for brake puck part # 407133 & brake disc part # 407134, both discontinued by manufacture.


Brake Puck & disc brake replacement 407133 & 407134

2006 JD L115 19hp B&S OHV Irratic Idle When Cold?

Can you guys listen to my youtube video and tell me what's going on with this? Thanks. I drained all the gas, changed fuel filter, let it run before hooking fuel line back up to make sure all the old gas was out of it, etc...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKsD...ature=youtu.be


2006 JD L115 19hp B&S OHV Irratic Idle When Cold?

Dixon SPEEDZTR 42 Model #966611201 has no forward power

Hello all, I'm still very new to this forum stuff so I hope I'm in the right place asking my question. My Dixon SPEEDZTR 42 will not go very fast in forward. When I push the levers forward slowly, it starts to move, but if I push them farther to go faster, the machine makes a strange noise that is in my opinion is either hydraulic starvation or drive belt slipping. I dropped the rear end units, ie both pumps and transmissions, and checked the fluid. The fluid is about an inch below the hole as I was told it should be in both units. Could it be the belt is slipping under load or do you think my fluid has broken down and should be replaced or are the pumps shot?


Dixon SPEEDZTR 42 Model #966611201 has no forward power

alternator not working

my 1980 111's alternator is not working it puts out 12.4 volts while running and that's not enough. i have a wiring diagram but it doesn't tell me how to check the charging system or where the diode is. help...


alternator not working

What parts should I expect to replace to get mower running?

I inherited a non-running Murray Select lawn tractor (model 465306x8B). It's not in bad shape. Hasn't run in a few years and the word is it may need a starter. 2006 battery is at 5 volts. Just ordered a key for it and took some of it apart to clean. Drained the old fuel and pulled the plugs. I haven't done much mechanical work in my day, but if I knew what might need replacing, I'd have a better chance at getting it running. Is there anything that typically brakes on this particular machine that would prevent it from starting? I will plan on replacing fuel, plugs, air filter, and maybe oil (although doesn't look bad or low).

I'm aware of how ethanol in gas has been destorying small engines. Didn't see an easy way to take off carb to clean. Is this an issue.

Thanks.


What parts should I expect to replace to get mower running?

Repairs How do I synchronize hydro trans

I have a Craftsman ZTS 7500 with 2400+ hrs. on it & one side runs faster than the other. I cannot find any adjustment except where the handles hook onto the rods going to the trans. The oil was changed in trans not long ago & both trans are full. If both steering levers are pushed all the way forward it will go to the left. Any help will be appreciated.


Repairs How do I synchronize hydro trans

Honda 2216 battery light/not charging

Hi folks,

I've picked up a Honda 2216 and it wouldn't start and the battery light was on. I've since charged the battery and it started fine first time but killed the battery pretty quickly after a few starts so I've bought a new battery. After installing the new battery the battery light is still on after a few minutes running. I have checked all the earth connections and they seem fine. Also all the wires seem to be intact and not loose.

I was wondering what the next point of call would be for me to fix it?

Any help greatfully appreciated.


Honda 2216 battery light/not charging

older 111

my 111 is the older model,the gas tank is under the hood i think from the serial no. it is a 1980. i need to get decals for it,most of mine are missing. i am also going to rebuild the mower deck because most of it hasn't been done yet.:smile:


older 111

new to forum ,old to john deere

i have 2 jd 111 one runs the other for parts. used to have a johnny popper tractor. the tractor was my grandfathers and i drove it for years,rewired it,it ran nice. then another family member borowed it and rebuilt the motor( it needed it), and decided to keep it. i was just a kid. his son drove it and poped the clutch and made the front end jump and when it came down it broke the steering he welded it back together and the tractor just sits there. family drama. not worth losing relative over an old tractor.:smile:


new to forum ,old to john deere

Mower deck replace spindle brearings

i have a jd 111 and am replacing the spindle bearings in the 38 in deck. every thing is going smoothly except the center snap ring and the missing half moon key. there is a zerk fitting on the side do oi remove the seal on one side before i install the bearings or do they come that way? any help would be most appriciated, thanks.:smile:


Mower deck replace spindle brearings

Troy-bilt Pony riding lawnmower

The above mower has a 5.5 Black & Decker engine. There have been complaints of this engine valve problems. Has anyone heard about this?


Troy-bilt Pony riding lawnmower

Motor swap

I'm looking at putting a Kohler motor from a John Deere L130 onto my Cub *Cadet LTX 1045 Any thoughts or advice?


Motor swap

JD240 Lawn Mower Trigger Coil

JD240 Lawn Mower Trigger Coil



I have an old John Deere 240 Lawn Mower. It starts up fine and will mow for a few minutes, them it seems to bog down and stall out. After about 5 minutes, I can restart it and mow for a minute or two and then it stalls out again. I went to the John Deere Dealer and he said it was the Trigger Coil (P/N M70114). So I bought it and now I can't find anything showing where it is located so I can replace it. Can anyone help? Thanks


JD240 Lawn Mower Trigger Coil

Timemaster blade belt wear

I have a 2016 Timemaster. The original v-belt that drives the blade lasted almost a year before it started to slip. I took the cover off and the belt looked glazed and a little worn (not cracks but width was worn) so i replaced it. I let a friend use it on a large suburban lot with tall grass and ...that belt now needs replacing about 3-4 months later. (I'm assuming that's whats wrong from his description of "the blade never seems to get up to speed"). When I replaced it last time I noticed that the tensioner, ie the pulley that the blade engaging (operator position) lever moves up to tighten that belt and start the blade has a little black plastic/nylon wedge that rests on the keyed belt (the long belt that connects the two blades and that the v belt drives) when the tensioner isn't engaging the vbelt.
1- Is that normal? I'm sure the plastic is slippery but it seems like that will wear the back side of that keyed belt.
2- How long should one of these vbelts run? A year doesn't seem like a long time, and even though it was used on tall grass (dry, which isn't the norm here in the north west) 2-3 months is way less.


Timemaster blade belt wear

Husqvarna YTA24V48 with BS 44N877 throttle choke linkage springs pics

More pictures of the hus linkage. It appears you can only attach a few at a time.
Attached Images


Husqvarna YTA24V48 with BS 44N877 throttle choke linkage springs pics

need part

My murray model 42571x8c needs a spindle housing part# 492474 can't find one...


need part

Cub Cadet SLTX Drive System

I have a SLTX 1054 purchased in 2010. It recently developed a rattle (similar to an out of balance washing machine) in the drive system area. Inspection of the area didn't reveal anything apparent, but I have not pulled off the mowing deck for a close look. The noise frequency reduces when the throttle is reduced and stops when the brake is engaged. It definitely sounds like something is loose and banging but so far I have not determined what it is and I definitely don't plan to stick my hand under it when the belt is running. My next step is to drop the deck and lift the front of the mower up for a closer inspection but was hoping someone might have an idea or seen a similar case.

Thanks


Cub Cadet SLTX Drive System

Old 13HP flathead throttle/governer problem

I've got an old Briggs 13HP flathead that there's no throttle adjustment. I can live with it when engine is cold & it runs fine for mowing. But when the engine is hot and I disengage the blades it revs up too high. The governor spring was broken & I replaced it but didn't make any difference. i checked the governor set up and is fine. I was told it must be the carb but not sure about adjusting it & don't want to start until I get another opinion.


Old 13HP flathead throttle/governer problem

JD Z225 mower deck vibration

My mower deck is making unusual sounds during blade engagement. The unit still cuts the grass evening, but there is excessive noise and growing vibration from the blades. They appear to wear normally, but the sound seems like the bearings are worn. Something is out of kilter, but I can't seem to isolate. Anyone else experiencing issues like this. My Z225 has about 300 hours run time on it.


JD Z225 mower deck vibration

X310 PTO problem[again]

I was having a problem with the PTO not engaging, or dis-engaging after running awhile. It got so that it would not engage at all, so I bought a replacement switch. The switch, as someone on here said, is very difficult to remove, as you have to depress 4 tabs at the same time to get it out. An understatement if there ever was one. I tried numerous times and had no luck at all removing it. I even made a sleeve out of aluminum the exact size of the switch to depress the the 4 tabs....worked great on the new switch out of the machine...didn't work on getting the old one out. The grass kept growing so I unplugged the switch and plugged in the new one, letting it just hang out the side, worked OK, but cumbersome. I tried removal several more times, to no avail. When the grass needed it again, just out of curiosity, I engaged the old switch still in the machine, the blades fired right up, and I mowed for an hour with no problems. My question is; what the hell happened? The thing had been acting up, not engaging for some time.


X310 PTO problem[again]

Simplicity broadmoor

Hi....does anyone know if there is a steering toe-in adjustment on a broadmoor?....front tires are almost bald in 150 hours !...thanks.


Simplicity broadmoor

Lawn Boy 10324 throttle lever

My brother got a 2003 Lawn Boy 10324 which is a silver pro duraforce. The problem is on the throttle lever slow is fast and fast is slow. What causes this and how do we fix it?


Lawn Boy 10324 throttle lever

lundi 29 mai 2017

Engine Transmission stuck in drive

Have a Scots riding mower and when mowing years ago I heard a pop and transmission was stuck in drive. Been sitting ever since. Any thoughts?


Engine Transmission stuck in drive

z335e

Hi all! New to the forum. Just purchased my first John Deere and would like some advice. I've had terrible luck with transmissions on my past two mowers (1 Troy-Bilt, 1 Husqvarna). I now have a zero turn z335e. Is there anything I should do from the start to prolong the life of my mower? I found out after the fact that I should have put a heavier weight oil in the tranny of my Husqvarna. By the time I researched the slipping transmission problem, it was too late. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks...


z335e

Why Do Some L Series Have Larger Rear Wheels Than Others?

Like title says, why do some JD L Series have larger rear wheels with lower profile tires than other do? Thanks.


Why Do Some L Series Have Larger Rear Wheels Than Others?

New Lawn Tractor oil change question

Hi,

I just purchased a new MTD lawn tractor and the manual states to change the oil after the first 5 hours, but it doesn't mention anything about changing the oil filter. Should I change the oil filter also?

Thanks,

Krazy


New Lawn Tractor oil change question

Fuel keeps stalling out

my 28 hp zg127s keeps running out of fuel runs 5 min then runs out put fuel pump on new lines cleaned tank added new fuel choke it it picks up then runs out again any advice from any one thank you


Fuel keeps stalling out

Is 150 PSI a Good Compression Number?

I've got a 12.5 HP Intek (model no. 219907, manufacture date of 2005) on an old-style Snapper rear-engine rider. It's not running smoothly, & I'm trying to zero in on the problem, so I performed a compression test on it. B&S doesn't publish compression specs. Instead, they recommend that you take the engine to a service ctr. for a leak-down test. That would be a hairy hassle for me, plus $ I don't want to shell out, plus who knows how long the service ctr. will have it? As stated in the title, I got a reading of 150, & I was wondering if an experienced person here could tell me whether that's good, bad, or merely acceptable.

Also, a little bit of gas leaked out when I unscrewed the hose from the adapter in the spark plug hole. Is that a big deal?


Is 150 PSI a Good Compression Number?

Connecting rod bearing?

Good evening, everyone.

Trying to help a friend with a blown B&S 14 HP single cylinder lawn tractor engine. Connecting rod broke last year, and he's trying to replace it and get this thing working as cheaply as possible. Took things apart and the majority looks pretty good, but the crank was scored up pretty good. Ordered gaskets, connecting rod, and a new crankshaft, and something just isn't right. Here's what we're working on:

Model: 311707
Type: 0125-E1

Connecting rod: 692420
Crankshaft: 690136

And here's the issue:
2017-05-29 13.23.22.jpg

The rod journal is much smaller than the rod. Is there supposed to be a bearing in here? Can't find one on any part schematic, and this is very clearly not right.

Thanks in advance for the help!
Attached Images


Connecting rod bearing?

Engine my Husqvarna does this ker-hugga-hugga noise when idling

Any ideas on what's going on with the governor spring or something? I tried spraying wd-40 all over the thing, didn't do anything. The mower is four years old.
http://ift.tt/2ryGW29


Engine my Husqvarna does this ker-hugga-hugga noise when idling

Turf Tiger 2 leveling problems

I recently purchased a new Turf tiger 2 and the deck was a little off. After leveling the deck I've noticed i can't lock the deck up in transport mode. Any help would be great.


Turf Tiger 2 leveling problems

Deck deflector installation

Purchased a new deflector for my LX176 with 38" mower deck. I cannot figure out how to install it so it has tension. Feeling pretty stupid...now my buddy is too. I know I had it off once before and figured it out using the internet, but cant find anything this time around. I have an excellent memory but its short. Can anyone help me out?:confused2:


Deck deflector installation

Repairs Dixie Chopper LT2400 no power to ignition (fuse location)?

This past week I bought a new to me dixie chopper that needs some work. When i got it home, the key would light up the hour meter, but i didn't try to turn it over. (I bought it knowing it had a bent push rod, so i didn't try to run it before buying)
First step was to charge the battery, unfortunately the cable boot was off and i touched the positive terminal to the frame and got sparks.
I charged and reinstalled the battery, now there's no power to the ignition switch.
The only fuse I can find is 15amp on the left hand side of the engine.

I've heard there's a 30A fuse somewhere but I cannot find it.

any advice please?
thank you


Repairs Dixie Chopper LT2400 no power to ignition (fuse location)?

Husqvarna YTH22V46

I hit a tree root with my mower and the mower shut down. I moved it off the root and looked underneath. The blades don't appear bent, the belts appear tight. I put some starter fluid in, and the engine ran for a few seconds, and then died. I'm planning on draining the gas to replace it with premium, along with a new fuel filter. Any other suggestions?


Husqvarna YTH22V46

Repairs Dixie Chopper LT2400 no power to ignition (fuse location)?

This past week I bought a new to me dixie chopper that needs some work. When i got it home, the key would light up the hour meter, but i didn't try to turn it over. (I bought it knowing it had a bent push rod, so i didn't try to run it before buying)
First step was to charge the battery, unfortunately the cable boot was off and i touched the positive terminal to the frame and got sparks.
I charged and reinstalled the battery, now there's no power to the ignition switch.
The only fuse I can find is 15amp on the left hand side of the engine.

I've heard there's a 30A fuse somewhere but I cannot find it.

any advice please?
thank you


Repairs Dixie Chopper LT2400 no power to ignition (fuse location)?

Repairs HELP - 2004 Exmark CT puking hydro oil

Bought mower used. After about 45 minutes, hydro oil starts coming out of hydro reservoir filler cap. Within about 5 minutes, I'll lose right side hydraulics. After it sits and cools it's ok for a little while.

Hydro oil DOES look milky and starts coming out after running about 30-45 minutes. Right motor still seems weak.

The screw that adjusts/ frees hydro motors will only turn about 1/4 turn either way on right motor.

I have done the following:
1) replaced hydro res cap and seal
2) changed hydro fluid and replaced with M1 15W50
3) Replaced suction/feed lines going to hydro motors

exmark pump labeled.jpg
Attached Images


Repairs HELP - 2004 Exmark CT puking hydro oil

fs45 wont start

ok guys, this one has me stumped.

my fs45 was running great one day, went to use it a few days later(we've been having hot and wet days so the grass is growing crazy fast) and I couldn't pull the rope. it would hardly budge. after a few minutes attempting to get it to crank over, I finally got a full rotation, when suddenly fuel came gushing out of the muffler, which then continued for the next 5 minutes or so till a beach ball sized pool of fuel was on the pavement.

took the carb apart, all looks fine. still couldn't get it to start(even after multiple days of attempts, with the plug out and covered so the cylinder could vent and not get dirt in it) bought a new carb from the local dealer(I did just put a new fuel mix in it, amsoil 100:1, as they recommend that for 50:1 equipment, and I'm a huge believer in amsoil) so figured maybe the richer fuel(also, I use 110 race gas as i already use it for a lot of other equipment, and its the only place i can get ethanol free gas. DOWN WITH ETHANOL!!!) needed an adjustment range beyond what the factory carb could do with the plastic lock tabs. after about 10 pulls when I pull the plug it is dripping with fuel.

today is day 9 of no start. I decided to completely gut the thing to see if there was any noticeable damage, or any reason for the machine not starting, and I couldn't notice anything. everything is actually very clean, and no signs of excessive wear. I was given it by my grandfather who is just not wanting to pull start anything anymore, and was used very seldom. piston looked good, rings looked good, weren't cracked or anything, and they moved in and out freely. I am pretty familiar with stihl products, just not "factory trained" but i have taken a few courses.

I do get spark, and my kill switch is functioning.
I have 5 foreseeable courses of action (COA from here on out).

COA 1: I see a pulled short block(no carb or muffler) on ebay for about 35 bucks. take the gamble in it actually functioning? It claims to have been pulled from a working unit.

COA 2: replace the coil pack. possible weak spark? gamble on that not being the fix.

COA 3: Replace piston and cylinder. Maybe I'm getting low compression? I don't have a gauge, but it feels good pulling on the rope. but that doesn't tell much. Now, I may get a little weird with this. Are there any larger bore pistons and cylinders that would "fit"? If im gonna be replacing it, may as well do it Tim Taylor style, right?

COA 4: both 2 and 3, possible that I have both problems compounding on each other?

COA 5: take it to the dealer and let them fiddle with it (had they been open Saturday afternoon, they would have it now, but, that didn't happen) I'd prefer not to take it in. Not because I don't trust them, but because well, I'm slightly embarrassed about it. I took out the spark arrestor and drilled out some of the baffles to get a bit better flow, which will result in needing a richer mixture, and probably less efficient running, as more fuel will be escaping out of the now free-er flowing exhaust system.

me personally, I'm leaning towards 4, because... why not?

your opinions?


fs45 wont start

Briggs 5hp starts with carb cleaner, then stops

Hi all, new member with a query, hope someone can help, I have a old Wolseley merry-tiller with a Briggs 5hp engine, the number on the casing is 130202 0162016705251, which I believe makes it a 1967 model, the problem I have is it does not start, only with carb cleaner, but then dies straight away, I have put new fuel, in had the carb off and cleaned it , or so I believed, cleaned the mesh on the fuel pipe, and still no joy, one thing I noticed was the gasket on the carb to fuel tank was nearly non existent, don't know too much about engines , but do gaskets have to be watertight and not allow any air in.
If I buy a carb refurb kit, will it come with all neccesary gaskets and diaframph, many thanks all , hope


Briggs 5hp starts with carb cleaner, then stops

John Deere LS 288 Runs but wont move.

:mad::mad:

I have a 2000 John Deere LS 288 mower. Mowing just fine and then all of a sudden it wont move forward or backward. Husband pulled it back to the shop with golf cart to tear into it. I would like to save him some trouble and go out and tell him what the problem is...HELP!!

Thanks, Karolyn


John Deere LS 288 Runs but wont move.

Weird fuel leak

I have a pressure washer with a Briggs Intec 206 that wouldn't start for me so I tore into the carb to clean the needle valve was gummed up but now when I turn the fuel on it leaks from where the air cleaner bolts on I'm so confused and new to trying to repair small engines. It is leaking where my finger is sitting on top of.image.jpg
Attached Images


Weird fuel leak

Grasshopper 718 Kay I believe 1990

My mower runs fine for about three quarters of an acre then the clutch kicks out if you turn the clutch back off and try to turn it on it doesn't kick in but if you shut the key off restart the engine the clutch will go in but will only last for about a minute or two then kicks back out if you let it set for about five minutes it'll run for about 10 minutes any suggestions. I've changed the seat switch PTO switch and ignition hasn't helped


Grasshopper 718 Kay I believe 1990

Electric Mower Hit Stump

I was mowing my lawn with a GreenWorks Digpro Brushless Electric mower and accidentally ran over a small stump. The mower made this grinding sound and shut down. Now it can start uo but after awhile it just dies
Thank you


Electric Mower Hit Stump

14 hp Briggs: Surging - - I've tried almost everything..... Please help.....

I got this John Deere Mower off C.L. and I cannot for the life of me get it running properly. When I got it running, it went to incredibly high RPM's. Now, It surges at all rpms, tries to backfire and surge when I hold the governor arm to slow it down, revs at incredibly high RPM's if I allow it... It seems I have to fill the gas tank to keep fuel in the carb bowl. Carb solenoid is working and float is not stuck.

It is not the orig. 17hp engine it came with but everything I am doing has to do with this engine model number and not the deere.

John Deere: L110 Briggs and stratton 14 hp: 287707-1259-E1 code: 001025ZE

O.k., I've changed carbs 3 times (inc. cleaning old one), I've set the valves, changed the fuel, replaced the spark plug, changed the head gasket, push rods not bent, changed the fuel filter, There are no vacuum leaks, plastic intake is not damaged in any way, compression seems good, set the governor appropriately, timing key is in place, set magneto gap, Bent tang on governor spring in and out. . . I've put 10-15 hours on this engine and cannot find the trouble.

Thank you

Scott - - Colbert WA


14 hp Briggs: Surging - - I've tried almost everything..... Please help.....

Engine won't start

Model: Toro LX460.
DOM; 3/2006.
Engine; Kohler courage 20, twin cam.
Before yesterday the battery would not hold 12 volts charge so I have been jumping with Shumacher charger. When charger is hooked up it shows battery below 12 volts. After jump starting engine the charger shows alternator is putting out 14 volts. Battery would some times re-start engine after being off a few minutes but not always.
Battery is now shorted out and needs to be replaced.
Note: Seat sensor has been disabled. PTO lever is disengaged and brake pedal depressed when starting (safety feature).
When I tried to jump start and turned key the starter made squealling sound. I stopped at this point and removed engine shroud to inspect starter. Looked ok so I energized starter directly and it engaged flywheel and turned engine normally. I removed spark plug, put key to ignition and jumped the starter. Engine turned and spark was observed. Compression was also noted.
I tried to again jump start to battery using ignition key. Engine did not turn but battery now was bubbling and no voltage was detected between terminal. I know battery is bad and needs to be replaced but I am not convinced that is the only problem.
When I hook charger clamp to red battery cable and ground to engine (bypass battery) and turn ignition to start nothing happens. I took the ignition/key assembly apart. It is very simple device and did not appear broken or shorted out so I put it back together.
I remove battery and air filter assembly so I can see carburetor choke plate. Lever/cable seem to function ok. I hook charger red cable to red battery cable and ground to engine with ignition key set to ignition/start. Nothing. I now hook red jumper clamp to starter (ignition key set to run) and energize. Starter cranks engine but won't start. I repeat with choke closed and crank engine again for several seconds. I should be smelling strong odor of fuel but don't and I see very little fuel. Carburetor could have clogged ports or need cleaning.
1) If I replace battery do you think ignition /key assembly will work correctly?
2) The carburetor may need repair.
3) There may be a short some where in the system or one of the safety override devices may be bad.
Have you got any ideas?


Engine won't start

Honda HRR2169VKA Won't Start/Jammed

I was mowing this morning and hit an object with the blade that stopped the mower completely. The blade was definitely damaged in the process, and now it does not turn without a lot of force applied. Obviously the pull string won't work either.

Seems like something internally was either bent or damaged in the process. May I ask for a little help troubleshooting what it could be?


Honda HRR2169VKA Won't Start/Jammed

GT242 Gas tank vent hose

I think the hose that fell off yesterday is a gas tank vent hose? (Is there such a thing on my mower)? - it smells a little of gas - approx. 2 feet long, pliable black rubber. Could someone explain how to reattach it? I cannot find a picture - thank you very much.


GT242 Gas tank vent hose

cub cadet

Hi I just rebuilt my carb on my cub cadet c-155 g with a tecumseh motor & its still flooding just wondering if it could also be my diapharm thanks again


cub cadet

Husqvarna YTA24V48 with Briggs & Stratton 44N877 throttle choke linkage springs conn.

Well I do not see anywhere the details of the linkage and spring connections for this setup. The parts diagrams do not provide it and Briggs or Husqvarna support cannot provide it? I guess they have one technician that knows and if he dies, they in trouble. I have spent time at a shop taking pictures and looking to get this info correct. The auto choke link connects to the plastic connector at the bottom which is controlled by the thermostatic control mounted on the side of the engine. The top end goes into the choke lever which has 2 holes and the one to connect it to is the upper or front one on the link. The throttle link is connected at the bottom to the governor arm and it has a spring around it which goes in the small hole in the arm. The top of the link goes into the throttle lever and the spring at the top connects to the top of the lever over the lever and in front of the center pivot of the lever. The spring choke return or butterfly spring connects to the butterfly plastic unit and to a tiny plastic slender arm on the connector to the carb to engine mount. On the governor mount there are 2 heavy springs and the greenish one connects to the mount and up to number 2 hole in the mount. The black heavy spring connects to the lower hole in the mount not to number one which is empty and then to the lower hole in the mount that can be seen sticking below the mount. Hope this helps someone?
Attached Images


Husqvarna YTA24V48 with Briggs & Stratton 44N877 throttle choke linkage springs conn.

tried so many things but doesn't start

I have a craftsman LT2000. There is no sound, nothing, when I turn the key. I tested the ignition switch by a YouTube video. M-G, B-L, S-B. All have continuity. I Tested the starter by jumping from the battery. Starts up, runs, but the blade won't engage. I powered down and pulled the blade engage lever to listen and feel for the clutch to engage. It engages. I am not sure how to test for power to the engage switch. I tested the solenoid by a YouTube video. I have continuity between the poles and am getting 12 volts on the battery side. I am getting 12v on the starter side only when the small orange lead is alligator clipped to the 12v battery pole with black to ground and red to starter pole. It's a 4 pole solenoid. The battery is brand new from last year also. Mower was fine last time I mowed. Last thing I did to it was cleaned under the duck out with the hose. What have I missed?

Thanks


tried so many things but doesn't start

Exmark Quest S (Steering Wheel) 50" ----- water bottle and other attachement points

I have tried to use the recessed water bottle location for a water bottle, but either my water bottles are too big, or the recessed hole is too small to hold anything significant... Found work around, however... used a bungee cord to hold water bottle to recessed area in the bottom of the front of steering wheel shaft... Just the right size for a large water bottle!

Now a question for others....

I would like to mount a weed eater somehow to this mower, so that I can trim up weeds directly adjacent to trees away from house, instead of after mowing, getting the weed-eater, and walking back out to where I just mowed... can anyone suggest a way adding a mount to the mower for this, and hopefully have a picture showing it mounted?

Thanks


Exmark Quest S (Steering Wheel) 50" ----- water bottle and other attachement points

Exmark Quest S (Steering Wheel) 50" ----- water bottle and other attachement points

I have tried to use the recessed water bottle location for a water bottle, but either my water bottles are too big, or the recessed hole is too small to hold anything significant... Found work around, however... used a bungee cord to hold water bottle to recessed area in the bottom of the front of steering wheel shaft... Just the right size for a large water bottle!

Now a question for others....

I would like to mount a weed eater somehow to this mower, so that I can trim up weeds directly adjacent to trees away from house, instead of after mowing, getting the weed-eater, and walking back out to where I just mowed... can anyone suggest a way adding a mount to the mower for this, and hopefully have a picture showing it mounted?

Thanks


Exmark Quest S (Steering Wheel) 50" ----- water bottle and other attachement points

Need Help with a John Deere GS-25

I just picked up a non-operating John Deere GS-25, which is listed as: 12.5 HP COM MOW. S/N MO4410X010699

It has a 12.5 HP Kawasaki engine: Code FC401V-BS05 ... E/NO FC401VA11310

It also has a SPICER transaxle: MOD 4360 101 ... S/N 007865 ... 04/19/96

It comes with a 36" double (overlapping) blade mower with the blades timed via a toothed timing belt. As it has been sitting outside in Maine weather for a number of years and when I opened up the mower deck cover I found a pail full of chewed up acorns and pinecones.

The deck is now removed (as are the acorns and pinecones) and I am working on the machine itself. The engine is free, but I'm not getting any spark. The key switch was rusted solid, but I finally got it to work with Kroil and WD-40. I 'think' there is a 'kill-switch' next to the key that was also frozen, that I have freed up, but I do not yet know if the electrical contacts in either of these switches are working properly. If not, then obviously that would prevent the ignition from firing. I don't know if there are any additional safety switches involved with the ignition either.

Both brake bands are frozen solid and I cannot turn either wheel, (yet!) but the parking brake is not on. I'm wondering if there is a safety switch that requires the parking brake to be on before the engine will start. All brake linkages and parts as soaking in Kroil, so I expect them to operate fairly soon.

Can anyone tell me where to find an operators manual and wiring diagram?

This is a nice rugged commercial mower and I'm looking forward to getting it operational.

Thanks for any help..

Roger B

P.S. Sorry, but I don't know how to rotate photos once they are downloaded to the thread. I had them correct in my photo folder, but they reverted to sideways shots when I downloaded them..
Attached Images


Need Help with a John Deere GS-25

New to me HR173 + HR215 Masters mowers

Hi All,

I just picked up a seldom seen HR173 for 90.00. This mower didn't require any repairs, just a good cleaning and an oil change.

I also picked up a HR215 Masters mower about 2 weeks ago. The transmission didn't work, but I only paid 80.00 for it, so I took a chance, knowing a replacement tranny is > 500.00. Come to find out, the hydro unit just needed a few ounces of Honda Hydro fluid (The cap/dipstick on top of the transmission was loose allowing the fluid to escape, got real lucky). Total repair cost 7.50 for the hydrostatic fluid. The quad blade does a beautiful job cutting grass, leaving my weeds the best they ever looked,,,lol.

Also is a pic of my HR17 I bought several years ago for 35.00. I just replaced the carb bowl gasket, gasket for the bowl bolt. I love these lilliputian Honda's just for their cute factor and you seldom see them on Craigslist.

Regards

Jeff
Attached Images


New to me HR173 + HR215 Masters mowers

dimanche 28 mai 2017

Won't turn over. Just clicks.

Don't think me insane. I was just trying to save some money by DIY. When I started, my John Deere D100 was working perfectly. No issues at all. I needed to change the blades. So, I tipped it over on it's side and secured it so it wouldn't fall back. I changed the blades then gently lowered it back to the ground. Now, it won't crank. Won't even turn over. All it does is click when I turn the key. What have I done? Obviously something. Any help appreciated. Thanks.


Won't turn over. Just clicks.

VERY frightened

Greetings. My online handle is LawnJawnson. I am on this website because I have a passion. a passion for maintaining a pristine, heavenly patch of green around my home. which I own. I am a home owner, and I love mowing my lawn. they call me LawnJawnson because of my notorious love for this...tempted to say "hobby" but for us I think it's more of a "calling", no?

I'm looking forward to interacting with other home-mow-lawn-grow-mow-owners on this website, I bet there's tons of great info here!

sincerely,

LawnJawnson


VERY frightened

Need help finding where this wire goes?

I've been in the process of rebuilding my B&S 31C707-0154-E1. I can't remember and can't find where it goes. The part number for the wiring harness is #698329. The wire runs under the front of the engine block plugs into the solenoid on the bottom of the carb with a pigtail. One wire then comes off the pigtail and end with an eyelet. I think it's for the engine shut off, but I can'f find where it would hook up. I haven't been able to find anything in the service manual or online.


Any help is greatly appreciated.

Bob


Need help finding where this wire goes?

noahsark

I have a john deere z435 ez trak the left wheek motor will not turn


noahsark

Another use for Snapper rear wheels!

Somewhat mower related.

So a co-worker gives me this Chinese made kid's 110cc ATV. It had a broken swing arm bolt and eventually one of the bushings in the swing arm busted. And the rear shock. So I fixed all of that. I replaced the $13 carburator that for some reason could not be cleaned out and repainted the body (paint flaking off) with white Rustoelum.





My daughter is too young to ride it herself so she sits in front of me and I do the driving.

So we were riding around the field one day having a bit of fun when I ran over this tractor implement auger with weeds growed up around it. Initially nothing happened except for this scraping noise. Then when we got to the house, the rear axle broke.





Looks as if the axle is in three pieces pressed together with two pins. I tried to weld it back together but it didn't hold.

So the next thought was to find a new axle. Despite that most of these bikes are clones from Japanese made bikes, because this thing was made in 2007, there were allot of design changes over the years. I couldn't find a 700mm long axle with a 25mm center housing section. I was going to have to replace the whole rear assembly just because of the axle size.

So this guy on forum sends me an axle assembly from a disabled ATV. For free! How nice is that? But it was not a direct fit. Some mods had to be done, mainly spacing out some bolts with flat washers and a little bit of grinding.





So now the main problem. The hubs use a 3 (or 77mm) X 3 bolt pattern. The old wheels use a 4 bolt pattern. The hubs will not swap over because the splines on the replacement axle are a smaller diameter. Can't seem to find any smaller diameter hubs with a 4 bolt pattern.

HMMMM, what to do? Buy a set of new 3X3 wheels for $80? Wait! I just remembered I have two disabled Snappers and the rear wheels uses a 3 bolt pattern.

The Snapper wheels are more like 3.25" X 3 and the holes in the rims are 1/2".

So I drilled and taped the holes out in the hubs for 7/16"-14 bolts and managed to get them pretty much centered. Probably not good enough if this was for a car but good enough for a small ATV.





So far so good! The tires are both 16" in diameter but the Snapper rims are 8" versus 7" and about 1/2" narrower. So it sort of looks like low profile tires on deep dished rims!



Another use for Snapper rear wheels!

newby from southwest Ohio

I found this place looking for help with a toro 8-25 rider. Y'all wasn't much help but I found the problem . I have a Grillo G85d walking tractor with a Grillo tiller and Zanon mower. A Craftsman self propelled 21 in mower. A Cub Cadet walk behind weed eater I picked up a troybuilt bronco rider and the little Toro rider


newby from southwest Ohio

Simplicity Broadmoor Hydro 14 Model 1692279 Sudden Shutdown

Mower shut down unexpectedly last time I mowed grass with no warning. After about a half hour I attempted to start it; successfully. One week later same thing happens but no restart. Any thoughts from the forum?? Thanks in advance for your ideas.
jfay


Simplicity Broadmoor Hydro 14 Model 1692279 Sudden Shutdown

Putting 2007 deck on 2001 721D

I own a 2001 721d with a 2001 "9561" 61" deck. I've beat the 2001 deck up pretty bad and it needs a lot of work to go back to work.
I recently bought a 2007 727k2 with a 2007 "3461" 61" deck and I put that deck on my old 721d.
I have a couple of issues and not sure how to overcome these issues, any help is appreciated.

First off, the 727K2 engine is junk, so using the newer mower is not an option at this time.
The 2007 deck fit right on but adjustments were needed.

I am having two problems that I need to address.
1. To raise the deck, it has the manual lift lever, I have to use both hands to pull it up.
2. Sometimes, the left side scalps the ground. I've adjusted the lift linkage tubes to get a level cut most if the time. This seems to happen if I am on a slight slope.

I had to put the deck lift straps from the 727 on the 721 and that worked ok.
Now I am thinking I should change the traction springs, maybe this will help raise the deck. Might even put the powerfold option on.

I want to apologize if this has already been answered. I haven't figured out your search yet. And thank you for any help that yuou can provide.


Putting 2007 deck on 2001 721D

Looking for info on MZ54s

There doesn't seem to be many reviews on the MZ54s. I didn see one Youtube video of a guy complaining about it tearing up the lawn, but that just looked like he didn't know how to drive a ztr... I was wondering if anyone had anything good or bad to say about them? The Poulan Pro P54ZXT looks to be just about the same mower. Not much on that one either.

Thanks


Looking for info on MZ54s

1822 hydro problem

Hi guys,
New to forum. Been reading alot about the 1822 k 700 016 eaton hydro. Mine went out after 15 minutes of owning the 1822. I've looked at new ones for $800 to $1000. Is there a way to switch the hydro (s) to another model like an 11 series. If so has anyone done ? Or does anyone have a good used 7 they would want to sell? Or is my current 7 series worth rebuilding. Thanks in advance. tired of banging my head on the wall trying to figure out the best solution,


1822 hydro problem

0il leak on B&S 44Q977 0110-G5

oil leak on a B&S 44Q977 0110-G5 loses maybe 1/2 oz of oil between cyl head and starter does not leak when running,only leaks for a sec looks like its above sump and block seam?


0il leak on B&S 44Q977 0110-G5

John Deere 355D Diesel Garden Tractor Northern Virginia

Howdy all,
Selling my GT355D mower. Here's the good, bad and ugly ;)
Low hours at 496 but will go up as I'm still mowing with it
18HP Yanmar 2 cylinder water cooled diesel. Twin Touch Hydro foot pedals for trans. 54'' "C" mowing deck. Cruise control. Power steering and hydraulic deck up and down. Good tires.
Work done in the past 3 weeks: New Interstate battery and aftermarket starter. Engine oil change and fuel filter. Lube job. Removed deck and scrapped all the surface rust off and repainted. Replace bushings in belt tension arm. Replaced mower blade belt. Gator blades sharpened and balanced.
The bad and the ugly: Upper plastic hood busted up awhile back and is gone. Lower hood is usable. Front bumper also gone. Paint is a 7 out of 10. Seat cushion is de-laminated and gone also, just the plastic frame is left.
This mower is ready to go and I have plenty of grass for test mow. Asking $2750.00
Thanks all


John Deere 355D Diesel Garden Tractor Northern Virginia

Exmark Metro with Briggs Vanguard Not Shutting Off With Safety Switches

Howdy all and thanks for taking the time to read my post.
Exmark M4815KA. Serial # 487995
Engine Briggs Vanguard Model # 350776. Type 1046-E2. Pull start
Problem: None of the safety switches work, trans neutral, operator presence or blade switches. I can only stop the engine with key switch
Research that I have done: According to the machine serial number, this mower came out with either a Kawasaki or Kohler engine. The Kawasaki engine has on on/off switch on the dash while the Kohler had a kill wire on the throttle control. This machine has the on/off switch so I'm assuming that it originally had the Kawasaki and someone installed the Briggs prior to me.
What I have checked: I used a continuity tester on all the switches, all good. Checked the wiring harness also with continuity tester, all good. All this lead me to believe that the safety interlock module was bad, so I swapped it out with one from a Exmark Viking. No change. Rechecked everything and all tested good. So I'm stumped on this one. I probably should bite the bullet and by a new safety interlock and see what happens.
Anyone have any ideas about this?
Thanks again for reading my post


Exmark Metro with Briggs Vanguard Not Shutting Off With Safety Switches

Freewheel Lever

Freewheel Lever is missing on back of mower, mower will not move. Wherever the lever connects to the CVT must be in freewheeling. where does the lever connect to the CVT drive?


Freewheel Lever

Fuel fuel problem with kohler 15hp

i got a snapper with a kohler 15hp motor with a 33in deck. am not sure if the issue is the carb or the fuel pump. i picked this mower up for 75 bucks. did some deck work to it and basic stuff like plug, air filter, fuel filter. changed the oil. I've mowed the grass with it one time it ran great. now it starts up great and runs for about 2 min. then its sputters and cuts off. start it up again runs and dies. would this be a fuel pump or carb issue?


me am a big snapper fan i got 2 and one for spare parts. this one i just bought is in great shape paid 75 for it. came with a bagging system. tires are great. it need the usual stuff clutch basic maintenance. its been wrecked deck blade holder was bent. my other snapper has a 13hp motor 28in cut its on its 3 summer.


Fuel fuel problem with kohler 15hp

samedi 27 mai 2017

B&S 22HP Intek Popping thru carb and now will not start

I have a 14 year old mower and that been actually fairly reliable up till this year. Started to pop thru the carb earlier this spring but seemed to clear up as I mowed. I thought it was bad gas from storing it over the winter. Decided I needed to do some maintenance so replaced the fuel lines, filter, changed oil, plugs, and rebuilt the carb. Started and ran reasonably well for one mowing. Last week went to start it and the engine was flooded with gas in the oil. Replaced the oil and checked the carb float again. Used a heat gun to slightly adjust the float so it would seat a bit better. Looks like it's sealing well now but since that episode it's been hard to start and pops out of the carb even while at idle.

Checked the flywheel key by removing the entire flywheel to verify the key was not sheared. Verified that removing individual kill wires from the coils or both of them did not help. Set the valve clearance to .005 (was not all that far off to begin with). I don't have a working compression gauge but will have one in a day or so. Feels like I have good compression on both sides. I verified the pump is pumping fuel. I'm about to pull my hair out as I have checked about everything I can think of. I still need to verify the valve lift to see if the cam lobes are worn. Popping through the carb would seem like the valves may not be seating or something odd. I understand that the guides can move. How to test for that?

Again my compression gauge will be here in a day so I can check it then. Anything else I may have overlooked?


B&S 22HP Intek Popping thru carb and now will not start

Need Briggs 33M777 Air Filter Cover Plastic Screw

Anyone have a plastic screw for the air filter cover? Mine is seized on and I'm going to destroy it getting it removed. Here is a pic of what they look like. Only need one. Will pay REASONABLE price shipped to 03809.

Engine Model number is 33M777 3036 G5. Thanks!
Attached Images


Need Briggs 33M777 Air Filter Cover Plastic Screw

Kubota T1870 won't start

Hi,

After more than 8 years of reliable service, my T1870 lawn tractor (Kawasaki engine) started cutting out intermittently and won't start at all now. I noticed the 20A fuse was blown and replaced it. The starter cranks but if won't start. I have checked the fuel filter and pump, the air filter, spark on every cylinder, every safety interlock switch. I just can't find anything. What am I missing, folks?


Kubota T1870 won't start

Motor stumbles when gas moves around in tank

Husqvarna Model 060311M 023782

After carburetor replacement, the engine would surge.

I removed the idle jet from the carb and drilled it out with a very fine drill bit.

This corrected the idle surge.

New problem is that when I push the mower back and forth quickly, or when I come to a stop against a fence or something, the engine stumbles and then regains a steady idle.

It seems the movement of gas in the tank causes the engine to stumble.

Any ideas?


Motor stumbles when gas moves around in tank

Kawasaki H 721V surging at idle

I have a 2005 Ferris 1500 with Kawasaki FH 721 V with about 425 hours.

The govenor is "loping/hunting" at idle; runs fine under load at operating RPM. To date I have:
Replaced fuel filter. Good fuel flow at discharge side of fuel pump
Adjusted valves
Removed fuel cap with no results to check for vaccum lock
New coils (corrected a low power issue) and plugs
Removed air filter to check for flow....no change
Took carb apart; ran fishing line thru passages. All seemed clear when carb cleaner was used
Sometimes unit smells rich
Is somewhat corrected if choke is applied...leads me to believe fuel problem
I haven't tried to adjust governor yet....not sure how on the Kawasaki

What am I missing?


Kawasaki H 721V surging at idle

Spark Plug install problem

Hello,I was trying to do a good deed for my sister-in-law by Serviceing her old Deere that has a 15.5 horse Koyler.I pulled old plug out .It was a little stiff coming out.I had the wrong new plug.So I decided to install old plug back in.Well,I can't get it to screw back in.It will start then stop's.Looking at thread into head it look's like it is messed up.I'm going to get correct plug before going any farther.Any suggestion's on what I need to do?


Spark Plug install problem

MTD Yard Machine 14.5 7speed

Model # 136M675G192 New battery, solonoid 12.7 volts off charger cranks over then dies battery now 12.3 or lower volts. What would be causing this? bad stator? What's a easy way to test this? Mower is currently dead. Thanks in advance.
Attached Images


MTD Yard Machine 14.5 7speed